Cutting | The Applique Process | Piecing

CUTTING

After the pattern and material are decided, the problem of cutting OIK our quilt is next.

This is conceded to be the least interesting and most tedious part of quilt making; however, it is certainly not a step that can be hurried as blocks must be cut exact. There is no alternative to this. The very week I am writing this there came a gingham diamond clear from Montana to me in Missouri, from a woman asking, "What's wrong with this pattern I got from a friend—it won't make a blazing star"! And indeed it would not; the angle was too acute. Eight of them would sew together like a saucer, and no two sides of the diamonds were alike in length, the shortest varying from the longest by 5-8 inch!

In the patterns here given the angles and curves have been determined. Lengths are fairly accurate, although seam allowances may vary, and it does make a difference where a certain piece is due to fit. Two triangles, equal sides together should be cut equal, but a triangle against a square of equal length will finish a seam narrow at each end unless extra allowance is made on the triangle.

We suggest that you lay tissue paper over the cutting pattern in the book, allow seams if you want the block to finish the size given, then make up one test block. You may have to change the relation of pattern sides in some cases before transferring your proven patterns onto the cardboards, which will be traced around for marking out all parts. It is a matter of preference again whether your master cardboards be the cutting or sewing size. Some like to cut on the pencil line and gauge their seams back from this. Others prefer to cut a seam out from lines, which are penciled onto the wrong side of the cloth, then sew back on these lines assuring exact finished sizes. Blotting paper makes excellent patterns for marking around on any cloth that slips easily, as it clings. Keep all angles sharp: Many an old-time pattern has gradually changed in character and name by being marked around until the points wore down into curves, or shallow curves into deeper ones.

True bias and edges cut with the weave are imperative for right triangle sides, and on equi-angular triangles one side must be with the weave. Squares and oblongs must be with the weave of course. In all of our ready cut quilts this is accurately followed. The center threads in the rays of the "Rising Sun" run directly from center base to apex.

After one sample block is correctly made it is often advantageous to cut or tear the quilt borders from yardage before cutting new material into block units. You know about the area of cloth one given block takes and can easily estimate enough of each color for the number of blocks required. Hence, border strips may be torn to require less piecing before cutting the blocks.

About one yard is required for binding a plain quilt, this cuts on the true bias into strips about 1/2 inches wide. Corners are left from this which also may be cut into block units. Allow 1/2 yards for binding scallop edge quilts.

Cloth should be smooth to cut, so iron any wrinkled material before laying on the patterns. Hold the cardboard firmly in place, mark around evenly with pencil on light goods or with French chalk on dark colors. Draw a thread to straighten cloth when necessary, and cut very carefully. Inaccuracies in cutting are as fatal in their way in this operation as in the so-called "major operations"! And "lastly" cut economically; a thrifty cutter has mighty few scraps left after her patterns have been laid on to the best advantage.

THE APPLIQUE PROCESS

In cutting applique parts the only special admonition is to clip in well to the folding back line on any concave curve—to keep stem widths even and mark accurately, of course. Bias tape is often substituted for cut stems. The sewing part of the applique work is most important. Some like an exact unit of cardboard to press edges back over with a hot iron. A creased edge that bastes back as you go is fairly simple to do. For circles or other convex edges it is best to run a fine gathering thread very near the edge and full it back to an even fold. This is perfect for creasing back circles like the center in the ready cut "Rising Sun."

All applique quilts baste first, building up the design, tucking leaf ends under stems, covering stem ends with buds or flowers, and of course these ends which are tucked under do not have to be turned back as the raw edge is covered. The charm of perfect applique is to keep it free from puckers.

When a block or section of the design is basted into place, whip around the edge with tiny blind stitches using thread which matches the material if possible. Fancy stitching such as blanket-stitch, chain or buttonhole is seldom advised. If you want your quilt to have the effect of the old-time "laid on" variety, choose the inconspicuous way of fine workmanship and no embroidery. Applique for other purposes, on aprons, decorative linens and such is usually more effective when buttonholed around, and of course it is a matter of taste in the quilt problem. There is no one way to combine colors, to piece or to quilt, and your idea may be as right as another.

PIECING

Piecing a quilt top is not such a formidable task. Really a knowledge of plain sewing, accuracy and neatness are all that are required to add to that desire to make it yourself. What little helpful tricks and methods we have learned we pass on to you. The special instructions given with each pattern tell you how to build that particular block, unless it is an obviously simple plan.

The two pieces to be sewed together must be accurately placed and firmly held. Triangle or diamond points extend out exactly the width of a seam, as you will find by sewing them. Seams absolutely must be even. If you like a quarter inch seam, and start that way, keep all of them so. Three-sixteenths is the perfect width for ordinary materials in my opinion, and this width is easily gauged by a sewing machine foot. Some makers of exquisite equilts use 1-8 inch strong for their seams, and when the material is very close weave this width will hold. The less material to bunch up underneath at quilting time, the smoother the finished quilt will be. A knot or back stitch may be used to start each little piecing seam, and each must be well fastened at the end, as that seam end will be part of another seam later.

Two bias edges together will stretch unless your sewing thread fulls them a trifle taut. It is better to sew a weave thread against a bias edge when possible as in joining diamonds for the eight pointed star designs. Even a thirty-secondth of an inch if added to several diamonds on one side of a big Lone Star diamond, and the same number less several times on an adjacent point, will throw the plan awry. Seams must be even. Quilt piecing is a most precise craft where a few tiny inaccuracies add quickly into a total of ugly stretch or puckers.

Pieced sections should be pressed; the seam turned to one side is easier and we think better than trying to open all seams flat. Protruding angles may be trimmed as you piece, which will also add to the smoothness of your top.

Your decision as to a seam width and whether or not you allow seams extra to the unit patterns here given will change the estimated sizes a bit. But there is no one size a finished quilt must be If your block finishes 13 inches, where we say about 12, that will simply mean that 36-inch material will not cut the alternate blocks to so good an advantage, but otherwise your size is just as right as ours.

GOOSE IN THE POND

Goose in the Pond is one of those homey old-fashioned names, which grace so many patchworks. Historical, geographical, botanical, comical, —names that sparkle with a glint of imagination all of which adds much to
the charm of calico cuttings and fine seams. "Lincoln's Platform," "Kansas
Troubles," and "Steps to the Altar" sound real enough, but who would know   what   the   nature   would   be   of "Widower's Choice," or "Old Maid's Combination" ?

Goose in the Pond is really composed of 25 three-inch squares, 5 of them
plain, 12 made of 2 triangles, 4 tiny ninepatches and 3 three-layer strip squares. This makes a block 15 inches square, as shown in the sketch below the name. Set together with white strips 3 inches wide and tiny nine patches at the corners it takes about 16 blocks with borders added for a quilt.

Colors may be chosen to fit into any scheme, but sizes should be kept small for this pattern. Cut the cloth just a seam larger than the four patterns here given as these are to be finished sizes. This is a good selection for a patch-work pillow or tie-on chair seats.

Material Estimate: The quilt includes 16 pieced blocks, each 15 inches square, set together with 24 strips, 15 by 3 inches, with 9 three-inch pieced blocks at the intersections to make the quilt center. This, with a 3-inch border at sides and a 6-inch border at the ends, will finish about 75 by 81 inches. You will need 11/2 yards of green material, 21/2 yards of gold, and 6 yards of white, which includes the border and strips.

PALM LEAF

Something entirely different again in the field of patchwork is this gorgeous block, the palm leaf. This pattern is sometimes called "Hosannah" which ties it more closely to the religious significance, which prevails in so many of the old-time quilt names. A quilt top made entirely of pieced blocks would be exquisite. Twenty-five 12-inch blocks set diagonally would finish with 18 half blocks (large triangles) and four quarter blocks into a quilt top about 68 inches square. A 5-inch white border with a 2-inch green border outside of that would make it about 82 inches square complete.

Each block is pieced first in a triangle like sketch A, then two of these to form a square, which is one-fourth of an entire block. If the colored material be a print with right and wrong sides, half of the dark patterns will have to be marked reverse.

Material   Estimate: Four   and   one half yards of green and six yards of white will cut this quilt, borders and all.    Total, 101/2 yards. Quilting follows the line of the seams, about 1/4 inch each side of each one all around and makes a pattern of slender triangles very effective even on the reverse side.

THE STRING QUILT

This is a very interesting quilt, suitable for using long, narrow scraps, such as old silk neckties or wash materials left along selvedges and such. The kite-shaped center blocks should be all alike in color, and if the strips repeated the same five hues each time it would make a lovely pattern.    When using odd scraps they should be kept dark, medium and light as suggested. This quilt is made of all pieced blocks or blocks set together   with 1 1/4 –inch strips. In either case there is a pronounced pattern where four blocks join, which makes an unusually lovely, repeat.

The pattern appears to be complex, whereas it is really not difficult but just a bit tedious and exacting. The five graduated pieces sew together in order to form an isosceles triangle. Two of these join onto the long sides of a kite shaped piece to form a right triangle, which is one fourth of the block. Seams must be added to the cutting patterns here given.

Each String block finishes about 15 inches square; therefore, thirty pieced
blocks set together, 5 blocks wide by 6 blocks long, and the quilt will finish about 75 by 90 inches, or considerably less may be used with a border.

Material Estimate: A String Quilt would be lovely with a peach tint background, deep coral for the dark, and apple green for the medium and ivory for light. Allow 3 yards of background color, 11/2 yards of light, 2 yards of dark, and 2 yards of medium, 81/2 yards total.

STEPS TO THE ALTAR

Of  All   the   quaint   and   cheerful names bestowed upon the old-time patchwork,   "Steps to  the Altar" is certainly about the most romantically cheering!    It is all straight line seaming too, and a very charming block when done.

If seams are added to the pattern as given, each block will finish about 101/2 inches square, or  15 inches on the diagonal. This means that 25 pieced blocks used with alternate plain ones will make a quilt top. The alternate plain ones are much enhanced by fancy quilting while pieced blocks may be done in straight lines following the seams of the pieced squares and traingles.

Material Estimate: The quilt contains 25 pieced blocks set together diagonally with 16 plain 101/2-mch blocks, 16 plain half blocks, cut diagonally, and 4 plain quarter blocks for the four corners of the quilt. It finishes about 75 by 75 inches and strips of white may be added at top and bottom for additional length. You will require ½ yard of print, 1 1-3 yards rose and 5 2-3 yards white material.   Total 71/2 yards.

A Feather Circle would be lovely on the alternate blocks, and so would any design which adapts to diagonal blocks.

GRAPE BASKET

Basket  quilts  are  always  popular. There   are   several   charming   versions easy to piece. The main part of   this   one   is   a   4-patch   of   pieced squares   as   indicated  by  the   extended lines.    To this the long strips with a small triangle on the ends are added, then the final bottom triangle to complete.

The grape basket finishes into a block ten inches square if seams are added to the unit patterns here given.

It should be set together on the diagonal with alternate plain squares and half squares of white to the edges. Twenty-five pieced blocks plus a 6-inch
border and binding makes a full-sized quilt.

Material Estimate: If using green for the basket and 4 dark triangles, with lavender for the lighter color triangles, allow 2 yards of green and 1 1-3 yards of lavender. Six yards of white will make a border, the plain blocks and pieced ones, too.   Total 9 1-3 yards.

An eight-inch Feather Circle would be attractive on the plain blocks, with a Peacock Fan on the border.

RIBBON BORDER BLOCK

Here is a border pattern which may be used for any quilt. It is called   the  ribbon   border   block because our grandmothers pieced it of ribbons on a background of changeable silk and considered it the finest of borders. The modern quilt maker may use it in many different patterns, using thej prevailing color of the quilt in the large pointed border and the complementary color in the three small colored blocks. Make the background either white or any color which your particular quilt requires. You may find this 9-inch border useful in making a modernistic looking striped quilt. Piece several long strips of border design and set them together with plain strips the same width and length.

Although this is an old-fashioned pattern, the suggested colors and materials are for a most modern coverlet, the couch robe or even the down puff for a chaise lounge. A center width of quilted taffeta in changing tones in blue and rose, combined with silk in plain blue and plain rose for the border blocks would make a most delightful summer throw or afghan. Made of 36-inch silk it would finish 54 inches wide. Either a plain binding or scallops could finish the edge.

SUSANNAH

Dating back to the days when our pioneer fathers and mothers were crossing the plains in wagon trains, we have Susannah, the rollicking song, and Susannah, the quilt block Perhaps the peaked print blocks were from the silhouettes of formidable mountain peaks ahead with stretches of plain before their angular summits. And altogether the Susannah block forms a cross. Don't think those brave imaginative quilt makers would overlook that symbolism, or the tortuous paths that the white squares form when it is all set together with plain white blocks!

This is not an easy block to piece, cut as it is shown, copied from an old pattern. It seems that it would be easier to have print squares like the white ones, and double-sized triangles added to the center square. But that would be decapitating the mountains and modernizing the prairie trail, and the quilt's owner said hesitatingly, "No, we did it this other way!"

A Susannah block finishes 101/2 inches square if seams are added to the above sizes. Seven blocks by eight, or eight wide by nine long may be used for the quilt top, alternating plain and pieced squares.

Material Estimate: Six yards of white with 21/2 yards of print is ample for a large sized quilt in this design.

A Tulip or any other flower would be interesting on the plain squares if an easy, rather open pattern is desired.

DOUBLE IRISH CROSS

This is really just a glorified double Irish Chain with the shamrock forming an applique on each ofthe odd blocks. Then there is the tassel draped scallop border which adds much of elegance to any favorite patch work. Scallop borders are assured of much better corners than they sometimes get if a pattern is cut in the exact size of one, two or three finished blocks. In this quilt the blocks finish 10 inches square if seams are added to the unit pattern, and the scallop is 10 inches long.

The body of the quilt is self explantory, a simple alternation of blocks A and B and the coveted "Double Irish" is achieved! Dark green unit squares
are appliqued onto the corners of 10-inch white blocks in A while B must be pieced in the exact order shown in the small sketch.

Material Estimate: The quilt includes 24 blocks of A and 25 blocks of B, and finishes about 70 inches square. Add a border from 7 to 10 inches wide, to bring this up to the size you desire. Allow 5 yards of white, 3 yards of dark green and 3 yards of green print.

SPOOL

In the days of our grandmothers, the spool motif played an important part in the making of wooden beds, stool legs and whatnots.   It even was inspiration fot the making of this quaint quilt pattern.  Imagine how charming a spool coverlet would look on a Jenny Lind or an old-fashioned "spool bed."  However, one does not have to possess a bed of either type to make a spool quilt.

These blocks are rather difficult to piece, as the ends of the four-side pieces set into an angle when sewed onto the center block. This could be overcome by changing the pattern so that the center square cuts into 4 triangles, plus seams. By sewing these onto the short sides of the outside pieces, 4 large triangles are formed. These 4 large triangles sewed together to form the 6-inch block make straight sewing all the way. To piece from the pattern as given, sew the short sides of the outside blocks onto the center square, then fold and sew corner seams.

The small diagrams show two methods of setting the finished blocks together. Either method could be used for an all-over pattern of solid blocks or joined into strips 2 blocks wide, the desired length of the quilt and set together with white strips 6 inches wide, to run the length of the bed.

Since we so strongly advocate borders on quilts, why not appropriate a row of spools, like one half of the upper placing for a spool border to use on most any patchwork you happen to be making?
 
Material Estimate: Allow extra for seams if the blocks are to finish six inches square. Set together 14 blocks wide by 15 blocks long, without plain strips or blocks, it will require 210 pieced blocks and will finish about 84 by 90 inches. You will need 41/2 yards of print and 31/2 yards of white material. However, you will have a more effective quilt and less work if an all-over center is planned, then a wide band of plain white for fancy quilting, then a spool border and a final row the darker color.

KALEIDOSCOPE

As a child you may have peered into the revolving mystery of a kaleidoscope, where mirrors repeated into alluring prismic forms the wonders of a few bright chips and pebbles. The "kaleidoscope" quilt gives
that same bewildering effect and yet it is simple as can be to piece. Of course, it is lots of work, as every block is a pieced one; but these are all exactly alike, six inches square and each four set together as shown to make a block twelve inches square, which is really the unit. This is sometimes called "Amethyst Quilt," when developed in purple, lavender and white.

One cheering thought to the woman who pieces this quilt—she will have a
beautiful  coverlet without fancy  quilting,  such   as   is  necessary   to  enrich   a quilt with large, plain squares.

Material Estimate: The quilt contains 168 six-inch blocks, set together 12 blocks wide and 14 blocks long, making a quilt about 72 by 84 inches. You will need 21/22 yards of light material, 21/2 yards of dark and 41/2 yards of white, a total of 91/2 yards.

ENGLISH FLOWER

Garden a quilt  which  is  as picturesquely English as Anne Hathaway's cottage is this quaint Flower Garden Applique.   It may be made of all variegated flowers in gay prints with yellow centers; or a color plan of coral, turquoise,   and   gold   flowers   with   green leaves and centers would be lovely.  The pot is of green and white check gingham with 16-inch square background blocks of white, or light yellow.

Twenty blocks set together with 3-inch strips of green check in lattice effect make a center about 73 by 89 inches. A 5-inch border all around this
brings it to generous size, both to cover pillows and tuck in at the foot. Seams are not allowed.

Material Estimate: You would need 31/2 yards of check material, 1-3 yard
each of 3 prints or flower tints, 1 yard of green for the leaves and stems and 4 yards of white, a total of 91/2 yards.

Quilting would follow the lines of the appliqued design, with perhaps a Shell rounding into each block corner and a narrow Cable quilted along the lattice strips.

JACK IN THE BOX

Jack in the Box is a crisp angular pattern almost as perky as its surprising  name.    The sketched  block shows how easy it is to piece first two white triangles onto a diamond to make a little oblong, then two white triangles added to  a  red triangle make another, and   these   two   oblongs   join   together making one corner square. Seams are not allowed so should be added to the sizes given if your blocks are to finish 10 inches square.

Material Estimate: This quilt sets together with alternate plain white ten-inch blocks. We suggest 7 blocks wide by 8 blocks long. A 3-inch border all around will bring the size to about 76 by 86 inches for the complete   top. Twenty-eight pieced blocks and twenty eight plain are used for this plan, requiring 21/2 yards of red and 61/2 yards of white, which will allow for the border.

A Pineapple or Four Flowers would fit nicely onto the alternate plain 10-inch squares with the pieced blocks quilted to follow the seams.

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